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Monday, November 14, 2005

Volcan Villarica

Our second day in Pucón we had our major outing: climbing the Villarica volcano. This was one of the coolest things I've done in Chile, maybe ever. Volcán Villarica is an active volcano 2,800 m tall that had its last eruption in 1971, spilling 30 million cubic meters of lava. These days its fairly safe to climb it, and from the top its a gorgeous, completely bizarre, other-worldly landscape of ice, lava, steam, volcanic dust, snow, views of the Andes, and being on top of the clouds. It was an amazing, fantastic experience.


Looking at the Volcano from its base. We started out the hike bright and early, completedly weighed down with enormous backpacks filled with ice picks, clamp ons, snow gear, emergency packs, and lots of food and water.


Here I am, about 1/3 of the way up the volcano. We were hiking in the snow, which was exhausting. At this altitude it was still really hot out, and had I been less afraid of being sunburnt, I would have been in shorts and a tank top. As it was, wearing long sleeves and putting on sunblock 4 times, I'm still slightly burnt. The sun is extremely strong in Southern Chile, since that is where the hole in the ozone layer is.


We take a break half way to the top. Kristin, Mariah, Jon, Jake, and I were in "Equipo Uno" or the fast group. We made it to the top in 3.5 hours. Though its not very far, there is a 35 degree incline, so its very steep and exhausting. In this picture we were putting on sunbock, chugging water, and snacking as quickly as we could before our guide started going again.


La cumbre! Up here, its extremely cold and windy, and occasionally the volcano would belch out deathly-smelling smoke, which made it hard to breathe.


We made it! Jon, Kristin, Me, Mariah. Yes, I know, we look ridiculous and somewhat identical in our snow suits and enormous sunglasses : ) We're standing in front of the crater.


At this point of the hike, the guide asks if anyone in the group has asthma. Since I did/do, I had to stay behind. Everyone else went down to this ledge where you could get a closer look into the bowels of the vocano. If you look closely, even the person who has the gas mask on is struggling to breathe. My friends came back coughing from the volcanic dust and gases.


Eruptions of lava! You could hear it gurgling and the ground was hot to the touch.


Steam from the lava (lower left) comes out of a crack in the ice. The contrasts here were so amazingly dramatic. In the background you can see the Andes and more volcanoes.


Lake Villarica, near the town of Pucón, through the clouds.


A cold lunch at the top. Knowing exactly how steep it was going up the volcano, I was worried about going down. As you can see, we're all wearing our survival gear: snow boots, gaitors, extra-strength snow pants, jackets, sunglasses, hats. All we knew at this point was that we "were going to slide down the volcano using our icepicks as brakes." It sounded scary, especially when the guides made us all put on helmets. I kept thinking about the waivers and insurance forms I'd had to fill out to come on this trip and suddenly understood why. Would trailmix and avocado sandwiches be my last meal? : )


Last views from the top before the descent.


I look like a bug.


After hiking down a rocky, icy, unbelievably steep stretch where I thought for sure someone was going to break their leg or fall of the edge or something awful, we go to the sliding part. So we did indeed slide down the entire volcano. Because of the 30 degree gradient and the (mostly!) soft snow, it worked amazingly well. It was actually more like canoing, or body surfing, than sliding. You kind of rode on this river of snow that got faster and faster and faster. It was incredibly fun once you got used to it.


Lots of pile ups and accidents! And lots of snow packed into your mouth, sleeves, boots, pants, backpack, and ears. Everyone is having fun though!

When we got back to real ground, I took one step on to it and immediately fell over. I was so used to walking on soft snow that its firmness was really disconcerting!

On the bus ride back to the place we were staying, we all sat in quiet awe of what we'd seen and the fact that we'd actually made it. We were exhausted! Also, the blisters, sunburn, dehydration, need for a bathroom (there was no place to go since the trail was so exposed), and wet, snowy clothes started to sink in. I was glad to get back to the cabins and get in the hot tub ; )

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